But the longer version was abandoned on testing. I decided to have two versions made, one like the original and one 2 mm longer, because this may make the button easier to operate in its on position.
LEADER LSG 231 FM STEREO GENERATOR HOW TO
Martin knows how to get it done with the right sort of plastic. If you need an arm made for a Tandberg TR-2075 – TR-2080 he has this file. We had to go through 4 versions of this arm to get it perfect. And finding the right plastic with strength AND flexibility. The 3D printing process had to be able to do very fine details. The fastening point on the switch consists of a tiny spring and a small mechanism that holds the arm in place. This “arm” links the on/off button with the mechanical switch behind. Martin of Kaproco was very helpful, and patient with this difficult project and the several versions I wanted. The first time for me to have something 3D printed. The job was entrusted to Kaproco in Sweden. Not even this very good glue keept it together. It is not just the lamp.Īnd then the power button “arm” broke again. I did a test – the TR-2080 plays! It delivers good power.
This plastic arm was broken and I tried to fix it. In the photo above from the side, with the metal L-thing, you can see the power button and its arm. If you do this, dismantle a TR-2080, and you are not familiar with its construction, take good notes of where everything is, like the metal part above, it is a complex machine. Found that the “isolator” board in between, the yellow board, was easier to keep in place with a piece of tape. This is the Mode/filter board from below. They should go on the front, had to dismantle the front again. Not happy when discovering these little metal L-shaped things. Deoxit, actually PRF 6-68, coarse paper, gentle fingers, IPA, let dry, solder in.įinally putting the last parts together. What a fantastic little piece of engineering. It was easier to get the hood off with the relay out, to not damage it. But I could not get the hood off, so I desoldered it and took it out. It worked like a charm! Like new, scratch free. I was horrified, but tried the very expensive but good turntable lid polishing from Novus. Actually, I probably caused some when removing the stickers on it. The radio scale glass had some scratches.
It seemed better to route it away from the power amp AC cables. Checking other TR-2080’s we see that Tandberg drew this cable differently from unit to unit. Also rerouted the new cable differently from how it was. A left over Neotech cable from the TR-1000 restoration. It is not an insane increase, I think it is within reasonable limits. It is hard to believe that these small capacitors can hold that much capacity. From the original 18800uF increased to 26400uF, or by 40 percent. Good thing with this is that it will be easy to replace these without almost any trace. It is a split supply and getting each leg in the right hole. They measured ok but considering the state most caps were in it is best to replace these too. There will be no drilling holes in the power amp board, because with “legged” capacitors it will not be necessary. I bought my favourite Wurth 3300uF/63V caps, already mentioned in part 1. Maybe not absolutely necessary, but who knows what stress they may had to take when the rectifier shorted before I got it. Getting close to be able to test run it, but I want to replace the caps in the power amp supply first. Is the TR-2080 the Aristocrat among Tandberg receivers? Read on and you will find why it may be so.
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